Castilian Cheese and Herb Soufflé

Preparing a soufflé (suflé, as Miriam rightly says) is an ideal option when you have guests... and now dates are approaching when, one way or another, someone will have a commitment! Making it is within everyone's reach, but certain guidelines must be followed for it to turn out well. So I leave you with the advice of the author of The Winter Guest, and with this delicious cheese and herb soufflé.

The soufflé… that arcane thing. Or that's the idea we have of soufflés: a difficult preparation reserved only for the posh, know-it-all chefs, forbidden to mere mortals. And a bit old-fashioned, sounds a little out-of-date, right? Admit it you do.

Well we're going to make it fashionable again, gosh, because it's much easier to make than you think, it's a very showy invention because diners' eyes pop out when we bring it to the table, and most importantly: a well-seasoned soufflé is very tasty. And it's a fantastic idea for a starter at Christmas parties. Don't thank me, it's nothing.

Back to the point: among savory soufflés (because there are sweet ones too), those with cheese are a classic, because the combination of eggs and cheese is always a safe bet.

By the way, yes, it is written suflé because the spelling has been adapted. There will always be some idiot who wonders why I write it wrong. Yes, you, don't pretend.

Savory soufflés consist of a base that gives the flavor, which is usually a béchamel or a more or less fluid potato purée. They may contain solid bits or not, but what is essential is the incorporation of a foam of egg whites, beaten to stiff peaks, which is what makes them rise, become fluffy and result in a soft, airy texture. Let's get to the recipe.

Ingredients

• 3 tbsp butter
• 3 tbsp plain flour
• 180 ml whole milk
• 1 pinch nutmeg
• 4 egg yolks
• 6 egg whites
• 1 pinch salt
• 1 pinch cream of tartar
• 110 g Castellano or Manchego cheese (cured or semi-cured, depending on how strong we like the flavor)
• 1 tbsp kirsch
• chives or basil chopped to taste
• a little breadcrumbs

Method

1. Before getting to work a good mise en place is essential, that is, have all ingredients measured and utensils at hand, and have read the recipe from top to bottom, because once the béchamel is ready you must add the rest of the ingredients immediately and as soon as we have the ramekins filled they must be put in the oven at once so the mixture doesn't deflate.
2. So preheat the oven to 190° (no fan, heat top and bottom) with a tray on the lowest level and with a dish where we will later add the water for the bain-marie. This ensures the oven is at the right temperature when we finish the preparatory steps.
3. Also heat some water to add to the bain-marie dish as soon as we put the ramekins in the oven.
4. Grease four ramekins with butter, covering them well, and dust them with breadcrumbs or with the same grated cheese.
5. Grate the cheese and nutmeg, and set them aside. Chop the herbs and keep them covered so they don't dry out.
6. You should have the eggs and the whites at room temperature for at least an hour beforehand; they grow much more when whipped than if they are cold. Separate the yolks from the whites. Add the cream of tartar and the pinch of salt to the whites, add the two extra whites and set them aside.
7. Make the béchamel: put the butter in a small saucepan or skillet and melt it.
8. Add the flour and cook it with the butter until it toasts, stirring with a wooden spoon for a couple of minutes. Add the warm milk all at once and whisk with a whisk quickly so no lumps form.
9. Add the yolks, the kirsch and some salt, and mix very well. Let the mixture cool a little and start whipping the whites. Whip them to soft peaks, but not too firm, so they are easier to fold into the béchamel.
10. Just before the whites are ready, mix the cheese and herbs into the béchamel with the yolks, homogenizing well. The cheese should not be mixed in when the béchamel is still too hot so it doesn't melt too early.
11. When the whites are whipped take only one ladleful and mix it with the béchamel to make it a little more fluid, using a spatula and gentle folding motions. Then pour the béchamel mixture over the whipped whites and mix again with gentle folding motions, but firm. The aim is for the whites to deflate as little as possible before reaching the oven.
12. When the mixture is fairly homogeneous distribute it into the ramekins. Fill them to the top. Put the ramekins immediately into the oven on the prepared dish and add the boiling water to the dish up to a level of a couple of fingers, no more is needed.
13. Bake the cheese soufflés for about 15-17 minutes, although the exact time depends on each oven; keep an eye on them, always without opening the oven door until they have risen well. You'll see it almost looks like they're going to jump out of the ramekins.
14. Check with a skewer that they're set and serve immediately, because they deflate before your eyes.

Enjoy.

Pallarès carbon steel knife, De Buyer copper saucepan and Set of four Emile Henry ramekins